Beginning a Cym hybrid-aka: Mr Cym's secrets.

[Australis]

Definitely am, Gary.

[Gary S]

That is good to hear, might be the basis of another post where the up and comer's can answer a few questions to see if they have been paying attention to Mr Cym's advice along the way.

[MrCym]

5-6. Sort of answered already. I would probably sooner make two pods of the same than two reverse crossings. But in the WT lines I make more reverse crossings because I am looking at influences that are still being discovered in both pod and pollen combinations.

I don't go for any voodoo on where on the spike I make the crossing. If the spike is just opening then I may use the first flower. Certainly I believe the fresher the better to get a viable cross. But sometimes I use the tip flower because the spike is waning and besides that gives a great defence against the spike rotting back. I do not self the tip flower as some folk do because there is no need to burden the plant with an unwanted pregnancy.

[Gary S]

Motoring along Andy - well ahead of schedule.

[MrCym]

7 & 8. We pollinate any day of the year. No voodoo about Full Moon or any of that stuff. Don't care if it is wet, dry, hot etc. Especially with the WT types we prefer to pollinate them on their main season blooming because that stops any temptation to stray and use marginally WT partners.

Every cross is tagged with the name of the pod parent first, the pollen parent second, followed by a circled 2 if I am pollinating two flowers with the same pollen and then the date. Then I emasculate the flower so it will heal and seal with no chance of rot developing from dying flower parts. Very occasionally I forget to write a tag and I see a pod forming, when this happens I don't try and remember what I did, I just break the pod off!

Pod harvest time will vary a little according to the season of pollination and the background of the parent. We find many ensifolium line hybrids are ready to harvest at 6-7 months but prefer to go nine months as a general rule for green pod culture. If something shows yellowing on the fusion lines of the capsule we will try and harvest earlier as the pods will be in transit 7-10 days to Pakkret.

[MrCym]

9 & 10. We write nothing in any book at time of pollination. It would be totally time-consuming especially at a season when the days are often short. Nothing is collated until the pods are harvested and prepared for shipment. We then regularly update the stud book by making two photocopies. One is stored with me and the other is in a fireproof safe at a friend's home. The book bounces around in any vehicle I am driving at the time I visit the greenhouse.

I will always load the stigma if the pod parent is a shy breeder or if I have copious quantity of available pollen. Why not? The more pollen tubes, the better chance of more fertilized ovules. However if I only have been given one flower, I may split the pollinia and make two pollinations. But this would be an extremely rare event.

[Gary S]

You are being very generous and concise with your answers, thanks again Andy.

[Hondurensis]

Thank you for taking the time to answer these questions Mr Cym! This is absolutely invaluable information! I'm taking notes to refer back to for future use, and I'm sure every other reader is at least taking mental notes. You are very generous with your time and knowledge.

[Gary S]

Going well Andy, over half way through with your very considered answers. I am glad also to see other members are taking notes.

[MrCym]

Remember, we all need to share what we know. I recall so many people over the years who shared their knowledge with me, unsparingly.